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Undereye Darkness: Industry Tips Uncovered

The No.1 Question I’m asked about is undereye darkness, so I thought I’d share some products and techniques.

Firstly, applying the fullest coverage may not be your answer for day-to-day, and can cause other issues like creasing or an unflattering heavy finish. 

The area under our eyes quite often has a diverse range of hurdles to overcome and there isnt a one-fits-all remedy for everyone.

For example, some people will find darkness/blue areas in the inner corners of the undereyes an issue, and others may have slightly recessed or sallow colouring. Here are a few key ways of tackling them..

Hydration

Well hydrated skin will not only ensure the skin remains plump but also create a smoother finish to applied products - something with caffeine is excellent to stimulate the blood flow. Apply only around the orbital bone as excessive eyecreams can be counterproductive and cause puffiness.

The key to natural concealing is working thin layers, especially if you are using more than one product. If you see the texture of your skin through your makeup it isn’t a bad thing! 

Correction 

Correction involves some basic colour theory, and certain colours will neutralise others and ensure when you brighten or conceal it is much more effective, as simply coverage may not be the answer to underhues showing through.

Green - Neautralises redness - excellent for rosacea or acne - typically great for fair to light skin types. 
Laura Geller Beauty Filter Corrector Color Perfecting Balm)

Yellow - This will cancel out blues and brighten, typicaly great for light to tan types.
(Cover FX Correct Click

Purple - Neutralises yellow or sallow tones - great for brightening the complexion. 
(Bareminerals Vio-Lit Glow Primer)

Orange / Peach - This will cancel out green tones, and is great for tan to deep skin tones. 
Vichy & Becca both do excellent ranges for colour correction

Pinpoint and Balance

Although you are using multiple products the less you can use the better, so pin point and target the areas around your eye that need certain products.

Light will bring areas forward so a illuminating or brightening product will give the illusion of plumping areas where your skin might be slightly sunken - giving a smoother and fuller appearance. 

Once you’ve cancled out stubborn undertones and brightened or concealed, 
you may just want to unify the texture with the rest of your skin, so use a concealer or foundation that matches the rest of your face. Don’t forget you can mix a little of your base with your concealer to ensure a cohesive look. 

Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer provides quick coverage and has an excellent shade range.

I love the texture of Bye Bye Undereyes Anti Ageing Concealer by It Cosmetics. Through its ability to expand and retract with the skin, it’s an excellent product  for fine lines. 

Eestee Lauder Double Wear Brush - On Glow BB Highlighter is first class for instant brightening. 

Tips

  • Warm any product on the back of your hand and pat in gradual layers, the heat from your fingers is an excellent tool. 
  • Lightly set with a transcluent powder for longer wear. 
  • A contemporary way of contouring is to slim the nose by bringing a brighter shade of concealer from the inner corner of your nose and blending it down to the bridge of your nose.
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